In Her Heart Is a Wall

After walking along the road to Jerusalem where some of the most crucial battles of the war of Independence were fought, we have a better understanding of the toll the war took on the Jewish state. Out of it, the fledgling Israel was born but until 1967 had to exist without its gem: East Jerusalem. Today’s tour is about division, the separation of East and West Jerusalem during Jordanian control as well as the separation of the West Bank from Jerusalem today. Our first stop is a sobering one as we visit the memorial to those who were killed in a bus bombing of the Al-Aqsa Intifada. Even as security is an ever-present concern in the country, this event was shocking and tragic in addition the psychological scarring, a whole generation of children who do not use the public transit.

We go now to Abu Tur neighborhood, which was literally divided on either side of the street by the green line, the Arab and Jewish populations to this day reflecting the demographic split. Soldiers in opposite lookouts would taunt, throw stones and even exchange fire across this line.

From the high commissioner’s promenade, an excellent vantage point, you can view the security fence along what is Israel and what is the West Bank, and the 25 ft concrete portion that cuts through the city of Abu Dis. Now, instead of only line on paper and an ideological position on what is Israel and what is occupied territory there is a physical barrier-separating place. In the distance can be seen Israeli settlements, now cut off more from the rest of the country.

This part of the wall itself is a popular place for expression, the language of which is English, to appeal to a more international audience. There is graffiti from all over the world on the wall, most of it containing messages that range from merely sympathetic to the Palestinians to violently against the Israeli government and severely questioning of its motives. Going further through the neighborhood we view a checkpoint that crosses over into the West Bank. Checkpoints, infamous for making what was only a trip of minutes into one of hours have made life much more difficult for families and businesses cut off from one another. It also has made the situation more dire for Arab Israelis, making it harder to shop with merchants in the West Bank, as goods and services are cheaper there than Israel.


The construction of the separation fence had a major effect in limiting terrorist activity in Israel. While the protection of lives is absolutely crucial, it comes as a price to the standard of living of the Palestinians. Additionally the physical barrier seems to literally cement bad feelings on of the “other” and to seriously limit interaction between Palestinians and Israelis. Distance and anonymity can much more easily lead to hatred. Even weeks after experiencing it, I feel I am lost on a way to feel about the issue. I that when I came to Israel and really began to understand how complicated and complex the issues here remain, it becomes increasingly hard to have a strong opinion one way or the other, seeing the legitimacy and flaws of the arguments.

Inshallah, one day we may be able to see a solution that can be livable to Israelis and to Palestinians a “just peace.”

Jerusalem: Capital of the State

On this tour we take a trip to national hill, the location of the most important government buildings in the country. Jerusalem is Israel’s official capital, however no nation at this time other than Israel recognizes it as such and therefore you will find no foreign embassies in the city although you will find many Consulates. All foreign embassies in Israel are in Tel Aviv. Again we are faced with the significance of a hill and what is placed upon it as a certain holy ground: Mt. Zion, Mt. Herzl and now the Pantheon of the Jewish State. The first building we visit (only the outside) is that of the Knesset, Israel’s house of Parliament. Great debate was put in the design of the building and even if it should exist. For security reasons, the entrance had to be changed and there is a lack of windows on the side facing Jordan to prevent sniper bullets from hitting members of parliament. Security an ever present theme in our tours shapes policy, politics and even architecture. We move on to the giant bronze menorah, given to Israel by Britain, which depicts both biblical and modern scenes of Jews, the journey into and out of exile, the rise from the ashes of the holocaust and the advent of the messianic ages. We competed with quite a few school groups as well as other foreign tourists flocking to this monument.

Many of the offices of the members of the Knesset are also near the building, and the old offices bear the stark design and style of the Bauhaus. Below them, is the second campus of Hebrew University, re-located in the years of Jordanian control of East Jerusalem.

Our Next stop is the Supreme Court of Israel after crossing through an international garden and then a grove of trees that features the indigenous species to the land of Israel. The architecture is such that you are funneled into the building, the opening room or courtyard resembling that of the ancient meeting houses. Light floods into the building, and has a large window overlooking the city. The Supreme Court of Israel is a very busy place, as appeals are easier to make and Israel having no constitution it is left a lot to the judges to interpret the law. We had the opportunity to see a unique case of a man accused of selling weapons to Hamas. Usually matters of national security would be a closed case but it lacked the proper security sign offs and was therefore open to the public. In the Supreme Court the most important matters of the state are debated. Laws about the Sabbath, parents rights to children, and so on. Marriage and family law is left in the hands of the religious courts, one for each religion in Israel.

Moving on we went to the Israel museum, much of which is under construction and cannot be viewed. There is however a giant model of second temple Jerusalem, complete with the temple. While surprisingly accurate for being built with many educated guesses, it gives a good perspective for the lay of the land. Also featured prominently is the Shrine of the Book, which houses the remnants of the Dead Sea Scrolls. The building itself reflects duality: Large black stone juxtaposed by the white dome, good and evil, dark and light. The Dead Sea Scrolls are of particular interest to Christians as well believing that John the Baptist was of the wild tribes people who recorded these books of the bible, early type Christians.

On another sacred mountain we were able to view the shrine to the state, its democracy and its institutions.

Christian Sects

We met with our guide Hannah in at the Jaffa gate for a better look into a very important minority group in Jerusalem: the Christians, and the various denominations that have a stake in the old city. We began with a short history lesson, to put things in perspective. In the beginning, Christianity was small and rather obscure following until it became the state religion of the Byzantine Empire in 324 C.E. as dictated by Emperor Constantine and supported by his mother, St. Helena. After going back to Jerusalem and piecing together the story of Jesus and the discovery of Golgotha as well as the true cross, Jerusalem became one of the classical patriarchies of the Eastern Orthodox (meaning straight path) or Greek Church. The other cities included Constantinople, Antioch, and Alexandria, as well as Rome later. Each of the patriarchs thought themselves to be the most powerful and important, and in 1054, the roman or Latin patriarch declared himself the pope and the Catholic Church split with the Greeks (Latins and Greeks refer to the language of prayer, not necessary to ethnicity). Since that split there have also been several creations of Orthodox sects that have their own ethnic ties including Copts, Armenian, Russian, and Ethiopian churches. Ownership to Christians of the holy places is important and they denote their territory with symbols as well as protect it. The symbol for the Greek Church, the Tauphus (letters Tau and Phi) represents that the Greeks as the protectors of the tomb of Christ in the Holy sepulcher. This symbol can be seen on flags and a large number of buildings in the old city, the church being one of the largest landowners. Our first visit is a Greek orthodox church and monastery where we meet with Father Aristophanes. He explains the major themes of a Greek church: the iconostasis that separates the altar from the people and has on it the images of important saints, The priest facing away from the congregation, leading the prayer to god instead of speaking to the people as an interpreter of the word of god. A large chandelier in the church was a gift from Czar Nicolas in Russia, where the Orthodox Church before the 1917 revolution was the official state religion.

Father Aristophanes discusses with us his life as a monk and working in the city. While all of the monks and patriarch of the church are Greek born, the parish priests as well as the large majority of the congregation are Arab Christians. He spoke to us on how it is easier for him to work with and get along with Jews and Muslims, because they can all respect that their religions are different however when it comes to catholic’s he believes they are heretics and disagrees in critical points of how they practice Christianity. This competition and lack of tolerance is the reason there is an uneasy truce within the holy Sepulcher and why fights can break out immediately if a group Latins, Greeks, or Armenians overstep their boundaries.

Going through another Greek monastery we have the opportunity to be on top of the most holy place in Christianity, The Holy Sepulcher. Even better yet, we are given the keys to go inside the giant dome from the crusader period and look down upon the tomb of Christ, of which the Greeks are guardians. Each other sect has its own part of the church, and some sects have much better funding than others, the Ethiopians having a small and simple pair of chapels and housing for monks.

Like I mentioned before, there is a problem presented when Arabs, the constituency of the Franciscans and Orthodox are practicing a foreign religion, and praying in a language that is not native to them for the region. A “mash-up” of faith as it were, the Greek Catholic church was created. Much the same structure of the Orthodox Church, although they follow the pope. The other significant difference is that the service is not in Greek or Latin, but in Arabic. As a protestant Christian, it was a great to learn more about the various other Christian sects and the history of the religion in Jeruslaem

Muslim Quarter

Today’s tour takes us to the other side of the Old city we have only before scratched the surface on: The Muslim quarter. We began our tour by meeting our guide for the day and lining up to go on top of the temple mount. Since the Al-Aqsa intifada in 2000, the Muslim Waqf that controls the space only allows non-Muslims to be on the Harem Al-Sharif for one hour on two separate days and are not allowed to enter the Dome of the Rock or Al-Aqsa Mosque as punishment for what had happened. As a consequence of this, what I expected to see in this place became very different than the atmosphere I observed. While I expected there to be a serious and reverent tone by everyone in the square, the large majority of Muslims and saw seemed to feel relaxed and comfortable in their surroundings. Our guide explains that the Muslim community in Jerusalem feel that the Harem Al-Sharif is one of the few places that the Muslim community of Jerusalem feel really belongs to them and therefore use it as a public space as you would a park or community center. Inside the Dome of the Chain, a smaller open structure next to the dome of the rock there are two Muslim families picnicking inside, giving apprehensive looks to our small tour group. They have spread their blankets and chairs inside of the dome in an attempt to escape the midday Jerusalem sun. As I look over to the Dome of the Rock, a pride of Muslim architecture and calligraphy, I see a young boy bouncing a soccer ball against the ancient wonder, oblivious that this small area is the center of so much meaning and conflict. To him it is just a part of his small world, a friend to bounce his ball back to him. On the temple mount, public fountains, arches and other structures pay homage to the various Muslim rulers of Jerusalem, each bearing the symbol of the specific dynasty and leader. After the hour allowed to non-Muslims to visit, we were promptly asked to leave by the Waqf authorities.


One of our next stops was to be among the most memorable of my time in Jerusalem as well as the honor to meet one of the most positive people I have ever encountered. Within the Muslim quarter of the old city, we are taken up stairways through narrow courtyards to the home of the Naqshabandi Sufi (Uzbek) center in Jeruslem. Here Sheikh Buhkari’s family came from Uzbekistan in 1616 to establish a place for sufi teaching and meditation and to welcome travelers. The house has remained in the hands of the Buhkari family to this day. The Sufi Order of Islam is the Mystic branch, emphasizing interpretation of dreams and meditation to feel G*d’s prescence. The focus is on the heart and that you should feel G*d with you heart rather than analyze with your mind. We sat with Sheikh Buhkari in his living room, filled with creaky old furniture from the Ottoman era. The Sheikh explained he felt most comfortable surrounded by the things of his family, as the furniture was purchased by his grandfather. Pictures of the famous line of Sufi teachers adorned the walls, as we sat in a type of living museum. There was a warmth and welcomingness to Sheikh Buhkari on the scale of which is rarely seen. In addition to being a scholar and teacher of Sufi Islam, Sheikh Buhkari is also a peace activist, believing most strongly that interaction between the various religious and ethnic groups will lead to greater understanding and peace among the residents of Jerusalem. The Sheikh along with other clerics of Judaism, Christianity and Islam participated in a project called Face 2 Face which shows a lighter side and to promote the idea that we are all people and not that different from one another. The Sheikh’s house was a testement to the rich history of the Buhkari family, with versions of the Koran and commentaries dating back 1000 years. At the end of our time, the Sheikh charged each one of us to be ambassadors of peace, and that through even small individual efforts we can accomplish great things. With all the feelings of hopelessness in regards to the conflict the Sheikh and his home serve as a sanctuary of promise in a city with its share of problems.

We stopped to have lunch at a small hummus restaurant with excellent food. On the wall was a copy of a medieval document of Muslim decree that banned Jews from visiting the Temple Mount within the print of the document. Although it had this divisive content, our guide explained most Muslim patrons of the restaurant just enjoy its historic ties. Touring again through the Arab markets and narrow streets we see the remnants of Mameluke architecture and Muslim Jerusalem. Our guide points out a poster above the doorway to a home, marking that the occupant had made the Haaj to Mecca, and received the poster upon their return.

This tour really helped to get a better hold on the relationship of Muslims in the old city to the Haram Al-Sharif and to notice the more subtle aspects of the Muslim influence in Jerusalem.

Outside of the Old City Walls - Haredi Life

The beginning of the tour today focused on communities of Jews that broke out of the old city walls and began to forge their own identities in their new settlements. Some of these settlements were begun by European philanthropists, much like Moses Montefiore, and also by the private initiative of families who pooled their resources. The lifestyle was communal in nature, all the houses centered around a courtyard in which the life of the community would occur: washing, cooking, and socializing of the children. Life was typically crowded and difficult, but the communities gained a certain amount of autonomy. Our real focus on the tour today however was to gain further insight on the Haredi or Ultra-Orthodox of Jerusalem: their different divisions and how they have carved out their niche in Jerusalem. The Haredi, largely non-Zionist and some anti-Zionist began coming to the land of Israel for religious reasons: to be close to the temple mount, to study and to be buried in Israel and be the first to be resurrected in the coming of the messianic ages. The neighborhoods we toured included two groups of Haredi: The Hasidim and the Magnadim (Lithuanians) as well as communities of Yeminite Jews. The divide in the Haredi community in Israel is theology debate carried over from Europe, having to do with varying interpretations on how best to live G*d’s laws. While the Hasidim are more mystic, with a greater emphasis on singing and even dancing to experience G*d. The Opponents, or Lithiuanians disagreed with the Hasidim interpretation of the laws, choosing to focus on study without singing.

Walking through the neighborhood we notice things common to the life of the Haredi: strollers outside apartments and the sound of children everywhere. Our guide points out how before individual plumbing the apartments had only one communal outhouse. There are a few mikvah on the side of the building, used to cleanse newly purchased dishes and vessels.

In another alley there is a Gineza, an object that holds holy documents that are old and need to be discarded. They cannot just be thrown away however, because they have the name of G*d written and them and therefore must be disposed of in this way.

Towards the end of the tour we have an opportunity to meet with two members of the ultra-orthodox community in Jerusalem and discuss issues of study, faith, and the parking lot issue. Much of Haredi culture is attempting to preserve their own community while filtering outside influences as well as modernity. In this sense, the ideals of Haredi life and that of the state can come into conflict with one another, resulting in some of the rioting and protest we have witnessed. While outside of the old city walls, there is certainly a cultural barrier around these communities.

July 6th - Footsteps of Jesus

Today we began on the Mount of Olives, opposite the Old City. On this tour we were to learn the significance of the sights dedicated to the final days and death of a Jewish Pilgrim: Jesus of Nazareth. While there is certainly a Mt. of olives mentioned in Biblical times, this is the place it is most likely thought to be, as the crop here would provide oil and processing to those who lived in the city.

Our first stop is in an Arab village at the top of the Mt. that contains the Mosque/Church of Ascension. Originally a Byzantine structure, it was added onto by christian crusaders and later became a mosque. The stone in the center is though to be the place where Jesus ascended to heaven after resurrecting from the dead and appearing to his disciples. The Muslim Waqf now controls and operates the site, and is still the visit of Muslim and Christian pilgrims alike. Jesus, called Issa by Muslims, is thought to be an important prophet, and therefore revered by Islam as well.

Right after, we visited a rival religious site, now a Franciscan Monastery. This site is believed by some to be where Jesus ascended, built by the mother of Constantine after the Byzantine Empire converted to Christianity in 324 CE. In religious sites belonging to Christians, there is often much political and theological debate over where they are geographically, as it had taken hundreds of years after the death of Christ for Christianity to really become a serious religion.

Walking down the path of the Mt. of Olives, we next come to Dominus Flavit, or the Lord's Tear church. It was here that Jesus looked across at the city of Jerusalem and wept at it losing its way. The architect attempted to construct the small chapel in a way that made it look like a tear.

Next stop down the mountian is the gardens of Gethsamene, another debated location, although the garden here does contain Olive Trees that could have existed 2000 years ago. This is the location where Jesus spent his last night, and the site of the betrayal of Judas Iscariot with a kiss. Here we begin to discuss the gradual but powerful move by the christians to create a narrative that implicates the Jewish people and blames them for the death of Jesus, ignoring the fact that everyone except the Romans in Jerusalem at that time were Jews. Next to the garden is the Church of All Nations, extremely interesting architectually and in its makeup. With donations from many Christian countries from around the world, the church has a very ominious and dark feel, reflecting the suffering that was to follow the betrayal.

Following the story, we continue along the Via Dolorosa, or Stations of the Cross within the walls of the old city and strangely enough, mostly in what is now the Muslim Quarter. We visit the church of the Punishment, the place where Jesus was brought before Pontious Pilate and asked if he was "king of the Jews." During his trial, Pilate turns the fate of Jesus over to the Jerusalemites, who call for his execution. After this, Pilate washes his hands, removing the blame of the death from himself. Jesus is set to be executed along two criminals, at a place outside the walls of the city.


The Church of the Holy Sepulcher, argueably the most important christian site in Jerusalem was built on the site where Jesus was crucified and buried in Golgatha, the mountian of the skull. The history of the church is extremely complex, and involves centuries of infighting among the christian sects in regards to who has the rights to care for this site. While originally a Byzantine structure as well, it was later expanded by the crusaders, who built a large dome over the tomb of Jesus. The church today is divided by Catholics, Greek Orthodox, and several othe sects. They had fought with eachother so viciously over control that a Muslim family has been in charge of the keys of the church for generations to remain neutral. The church itself is very interesting inside because of these different divides and therefore contains a number of different styles. Due to a argeement on keeping the status quo, rennovations of the church were completely halted so the sects would not encroach on eachother's space. As a symbol of this there is the Immovable ladder on the second floor of the church that cannot be tampered with as it must remain after the agreement. Even today, voilent outbursts between sects occur, particularly during feast holidays. Not an especially christian way of behaving.

Overall, the church was rather impressive although even as a christian I felt like a complete stranger in it. The ritual and holiness of the place for me was overshadowed by the constant bickering and unwillingness to cooperate in maintaining Christianity's most holy of sites.

July 5th -Tel Aviv field trip

Today we went to Tel Aviv with Dr. Mendelsson to explore what it says about Israeli nation building and in many ways as a juxtaposition to our Jerusalem experience. Tel Aviv in its 100 year history has served to represent "the new hebrew," a secular yet cultural identity, to build the city in sand dunes, to replace the arab port of Jaffa with a new Jewish destination. It isn't a mistake that the title of Herzl's novel was translated as Tel Aviv in Hebrew.

Our first stop was a very telling visit to Independance Hall, where the declaration was read to make Israel a soveriegn state following the end of the british mandate. The first important detail to note is that this historic site is not managed by the state of Israel but rather by the municipality of Tel Aviv. The "hall" was formerly the house of the mayor of Tel Aviv and maintains a still humble prescence. The main room has been reconstructed to reflect how it looked on the day of Independance and the speech of David Ben-Gurion plays as well as the national anthem. As with many sites in Israel, here you are meant to have an experience, a connection with the site and its place in Israeli history, and the creation of national identity. One is supposed to think of the unity of the Jewish people in this place, however the state has chosen not to keep this as sacred a site as Mt. Herzl or any of the more grand national monuments.


Walking down the street gives greater insight into the planning of the city, the original homeowners drawing lots and building the streets and throuroughfares of Tel Aviv themselves. Also we noticed, the style of international architecture pioneered in the Bauhaus. A socialist style, it features clean simple lines, functionality and lots of natural light, a style I rather like although it is starkly modern.

July 3-4 :Dj Tiesto/ Beach day

After our tour on Friday we hopped a bus from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, only an hour's ride away. Arriving in the city already feels like being transported through time, the skyscrapers and modern buildings in clear juxtaposition of the ancient stone of Jerusalem. While the girls took a taxi to get our tickets to DJ Tiesto, we decided to walk to the Hostel. After quite a few hot and sweaty minutes we made it there, only a block away from "Jerusalem beach" and claiming to be "the best Hostel in all Tel Aviv." Despite this, we must sleep on mattresses on the roof as there is no room for us in the dormitories.


After having to drive around a bit to find the park DJ Tiesto was actually playing in, we made it there to hear the driving bass and pop fare of European dance music. This was the ultimate cultural experience. So many people here: the clothing, dancing style, excitement, almost every element was different than shows in the US, yet still similar in the overall feel. It was good to go to something not at all touristy and develop a bit of a feeling for what the local culture is like. Almost impossible to catch a cab afterwards, have to walk up the road about a mile. Sleeping on the roof was less than desirable, but an adventure none the less.

The next day was shabbat, and as the buses would not run until sundown, we spent the day at the beach, no one leaving without a sunburn unfortunately. At the central station where we got the bus back, I was not prepared for the atmosphere. Walking through the doors was like entering a different country, almost all the people there central and south east asian workers. When the bus came, there was a pushing and shoving battle to get on, I had never seen anything like it in my life.

overall a good weekend and a greater insight into Israeli culture

July 3rd - Second Temple Period

This morning started off with a visit to the Jerusalem archeological sight on the less famous/ frequented part of the Western Wall. As the main section is divided by Male and Female, the section of the wall here is frequented by members of the conservative and reform Judaism movements in Israel and here men and women may pray together as well as women are allowed to practice ritual such as reading from the bible and wrapping Tefillin.

The archeological museum here made the decision of preserving pieces of all the historical periods of Jerusalem's history from the first and second temple through the byzantine and Muslim periods. It is in this place that the remains of "Wall Street" a temple market for buying sacrifices and changing money once stood. This is also thought to be the same place where Jesus overturned the money changer's tables (or benches, depending on translation).

A part of the wall that is missing has been attributed to the place where Mohammad tied his mythical horse before ascending to heaven at the Dome of Rock upon the temple mount.

By examining the remnants of the houses of Rabbis of the second temple period, it is clear that there is heavy Roman influence and decadence in the life of the clergy. Grand mosaics, Corinthian columns and private Mikvahs (ritual baths) adorn these houses.

Barak tells us the legend of Kamtza and Bar Kamtza two men with unfortunately similar names, and whose confusion of identity leads to the destruction of the second temple by the Romans in Bar Kamtza's anger that the Rabbis had not defended him (full story http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kamtza_%26_Bar_Kamtza).

Mt. Zion/ City of David

On this day, we look back to before the first temple to gain an understanding of the very small role Jerusalem played in this time when it was the land of Jebus, not even on the main highway through the region. The bible mentions that in the times before the Kings of Israel, there was lawlessness amongst the tribes, none looking out for one another. When King David reunited the tribes he decided to place the capital near its center, on the next mountain over from Zion, what is now known as the city of David. The archeological digging in this site has uncovered what some believe to be the Palace of David, overlooking an Arab village across the valley that would have been there in those days.

This idea lends itself to the story of David watching the beautiful women bathing on the roof, eventually having her husband killed so she can be his wife. For this David is challenged by a commoner and chooses to repent for his sin. The story is lovingly retold in the lyrics of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah:"

Your faith was strong but you needed proof
You saw her bathing on the roof
Her beauty and the moonlight overthrew you
She tied you
To a kitchen chair
She broke your throne, and she cut your hair
And from your lips she drew the Hallelujah

Baby I have been here before
I know this room, I've walked this floor
I used to live alone before I knew you.
I've seen your flag on the marble arch
Love is not a victory march
It's a cold and it's a broken Hallelujah


Beneath the city of David is the Gihon spring, which was the source of water for the its inhabitants. A hand carved tunnel was made through the Gihon, and now tourists may travel its windy passageway. The journey through the dark tunnel was much longer than I expected, at least half an hour. While most of the time we moved fairly quickly, when things became congested I began to get claustrophobic.

After coming out of the tunnel, we saw a roped off area where they are continuing excavation of the site. We came out of the area in the Arab village of Silwan, which sits right on top of the archeological project. immediately it looked like a different Israel. While Palestinian Israelis pay the same taxes, they do not recieve the same municipal dollars to build their schools, parks and infrastructure. We talked to a Palestinian here against the digging project as he says it has caused damage to no fewer than 40 homes in the area. There are also very apparent signs of settlers in this village, their barbed wire compounds and Israeli flags waving contrast starkly against the rest of the landscape of Silwan. He tells us that the settlers are extremely aggressive, and have recently attacked the Palestinians here at a non-violent protest that had been organized. The most shocking thing for me about this experience is how drastically sense of place changes in physically in such a small area, right next to this revered Jewish historical site. This experience adds layer upon layer of past and present, historical cleavage and social complexity.

7/1/09 - First Day of Classes

Well now we are operating out of our home base in the student village of Hebrew U and all moved in to our rooms. The way the dorms are set up is in 5 person apartments with a communal living room and kitchenette, bathrooms and shower inside. It is nice to have my own bedroom, and to have semi-permanent place to live. I have to two Israeli roommates as well as two from Philadelphia who are also in the program at Rothberg International school. It is a nice living situation, but we are so busy that I really don't spend that much time here.

Today we had our first class with Dr. Mendelsson, exploring the origins, motivations and desires for the Zionist movement and the creation of a Jewish state in Palestine. I appreciate how his method of questioning challenges us to think critically about this subject and makes it interesting to learn. It is also nice to have a smaller class of about 15 as it promotes discussion and students don't feel as reluctant to participate.

After this, we met Prof Bernstein and our Jerusalem tour guide Barack at the King David Hotel downtown. As we discuss why we have come here and what Jerusalem means to us, I am still taken aback that I am actually here experiencing all this. A city with so much history can be overwhelming, if you dig literally anywhere you may find remnants of civilization dating even before 500 B.C.

On this day we got an introduction to the city, the first neighborhood outside the city walls and the topography of the region. Barack introduced us to the idea of two cities: a heavenly Jerusalem and an earthly Jerusalem, competing elements that tell the story of the area. Between these are ideas of history and faith, record and legend. A perfect example of this is the Tomb of King David, over which is said to be the room of Jesus' last supper with the Apostles, as well as a Mosque. All three monotheistic religions claim a part of the site, although it is uncertain whether or not any of these are actual sites, as the archeological records do not agree with the claims of religion. In this way the place inhabits a grey area of fascination with myth and reality.

We finished the day with a walk through the old city and a visit to the Western Wall. Although relatively uncrowded this site still gave a powerful presence. As I stood there and placed my hand upon the stone, it felt as it the stories of the centuries could be told in that place.

6/28/2009

First day of touring in the Galilee valley with Schraga (sp?), our tour guide from Nahalal. We began with a very European looking statue of Alexander Zaid, a Russian immigrant and protector of the valley in the 19th century.


On next to Bet She'arim, a necropolis and resting place of the famous Rabbi Yehuda Henassi, the compiler of the Mishna, the oral traditions of the Jews regarding daily life, a compliment to the Torah. We also saw the ruins of the Senadrene, the ancient Jewish court that handles the judicial matters of the people.

In Sippori we were amazed at the ancient Roman aqueducts caves and pipes used to transport water throughout the region. The sheer scale of the caves is a testament to the capabilities of man, even so long ago. We also experienced the ruins of a roman settlement with some incredible mosaic that had been perserved.

an interesting note was in the remains of the Synagogue a mosiac with representations of the Zodiac, and jews today still debate the appropriateness of this decoration although common in the era

6/27/2009

When I woke up the this morning I was privileged enough to have a great breakfast prepared by Talli's mother: Hummus, good bread, tea and Israeli Salad (cucumber and tomatoes in olive oil!, really fresh tasting). After I had finished Halli and I were taken on a four wheel drive tour of the Moshav by Talli's sister and her husband. Nahalal is very unique in its circular shape, and it was interesting to see how many different types of artistry and farming go on there. Talli also is an accomplished potter and showed us her work, as well as a kiln she built herself.

When we were together in a group we were able to see the archive room of the Moshav, curated by an amazing historian who had so many great stories for us. Each year had its own file full of pictures writings and artifacts from the Moshav. We were also told the stories of the members of the community who had died in their military service to the country

The History of Nahalal is intertwined with that of Israel and it was great to see those connections.

6/26/2009

In the morning we packed up and had a great Israeli style breakfast before our journey to Galilee. We had great yogurts, cheeses, fruit, cucumbers and rolls... the best. On our way to Nahalal we stopped at Appolonia, the site of ancient ruins from the Phoenician, Hellenistic and Byzantine period as well as the remains of a crusader fortress. The sight was right on the Mediterranean and was eventually destroyed by the muslim armies after the town had been under siege for 40 days.

After this we made it to Nahalal, Israel's very first Moshav (communal farm) founded in 1921. A very historic place and intergral to the History of the country, a number of famous Israelis have called it home at one time or another included Moshe Dayan and Ariel Sharon.

Tonight we are staying with Host families so we can really get a feel for Israeli life away from the tourist side. My host mother is Talli Barr, who had lived in Los Angeles for a time but returned to the beauty and simplicity of Nahalal where she lives with her parents and her sisters family. The hospitality was incredible. After a nice friday evening Shabbat service with lots of singing and a bit of dancing we sat down to a huge dinner of Kebab, various salads and the absolute best Baklava from the Bedouin village nearby

Interesting political discussion and perspective. Although definately not what I am used to hearing in terms of being pretty right leaning with a pretty strong anti-arab sentiment, it is hard for me to be judgemental as I am not close to the fighting. Nahalal has lost many of its own in the wars and even was fired upon by Hezbollah's Katuysha rockets in the 2006 war with Lebanon. As it is always said, Israel is a complicated place with multiple opinions and complicated challenges.

First Day

After a long flight with a layover in Frankfort, I arrive at Ben-Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv to meet up with Halli and Prof. Bernstein. We have a drive through the city to pick up two other members of our group, Amy and Aviva. While we were at the bus station I started to realize how many soldiers there are they are all carrying machine guns. One was eating a popsicle and holding his rifle which seemed like an interesting juxtopostion and said alot about the normalcy of security concerns in this country.

We then continued on to the beautiful neighborhood of Ramat Ha-Sharon where we would stay the night at Prof Bernstein's Mom's apartment and meet up with Jason. We walked the streets of the town and enjoyed some great frozen yogurt and Falafel.

The views from the top of the apartment were amazing, and we ended the evening by drinking tea and watching the stars.

Night Before

Here I am on the night before my adventure. Most of my things are all packed up and I feel more or less ready for the trip. Even though I have been all over the world, I always feel a bit anxious/nervous before setting out, and especially in a region I have never before visited.

With so many of my friends and family excited for this trip, I will try to keep you all updated as much as possible so you can share in my experience!!

Right when we arrive in Israel our group has planned a trip to the Galilee to stay at a historic Moshav (communal farm) founded in the 1920's. The "spoke wheel" design of the village and outlying farms is very similar to the style my ancestors utilized in 19th century Germany. We are going to stay with families for the one night so I am really looking forward to interacting with them.

Can't wait to tell you all about it,
In Peace

Alex

The First Post

Hey everyone,

On June 24 I will begin my international study at Hebrew University, Jerusalem. I will be spending a month in Israel and thought that this blog would be a good forum to share my reflections, experiences, pictures and everything else to keep friends and family updated.


I am anxious and excited for this experience. As I have decided to focus my studies on Middle East culture, politics, and religion I hope that this experience with strengthen my interest and passion for this region. I want to gain a first hand understanding of the history and culture of this completely fascinating place.


I plan also to post on here essays and research papers of mine on the region, to give an overall sense for how my knowledge will grow and change.

in Peace