Today we began on the Mount of Olives, opposite the Old City. On this tour we were to learn the significance of the sights dedicated to the final days and death of a Jewish Pilgrim: Jesus of Nazareth. While there is certainly a Mt. of olives mentioned in Biblical times, this is the place it is most likely thought to be, as the crop here would provide oil and processing to those who lived in the city.
Our first stop is in an Arab village at the top of the Mt. that contains the Mosque/Church of Ascension. Originally a Byzantine structure, it was added onto by christian crusaders and later became a mosque. The stone in the center is though to be the place where Jesus ascended to heaven after resurrecting from the dead and appearing to his disciples. The Muslim Waqf now controls and operates the site, and is still the visit of Muslim and Christian pilgrims alike. Jesus, called Issa by Muslims, is thought to be an important prophet, and therefore revered by Islam as well.
Right after, we visited a rival religious site, now a Franciscan Monastery. This site is believed by some to be where Jesus ascended, built by the mother of Constantine after the Byzantine Empire converted to Christianity in 324 CE. In religious sites belonging to Christians, there is often much political and theological debate over where they are geographically, as it had taken hundreds of years after the death of Christ for Christianity to really become a serious religion.
Walking down the path of the Mt. of Olives, we next come to Dominus Flavit, or the Lord's Tear church. It was here that Jesus looked across at the city of Jerusalem and wept at it losing its way. The architect attempted to construct the small chapel in a way that made it look like a tear.
Next stop down the mountian is the gardens of Gethsamene, another debated location, although the garden here does contain Olive Trees that could have existed 2000 years ago. This is the location where Jesus spent his last night, and the site of the betrayal of Judas Iscariot with a kiss. Here we begin to discuss the gradual but powerful move by the christians to create a narrative that implicates the Jewish people and blames them for the death of Jesus, ignoring the fact that everyone except the Romans in Jerusalem at that time were Jews. Next to the garden is the Church of All Nations, extremely interesting architectually and in its makeup. With donations from many Christian countries from around the world, the church has a very ominious and dark feel, reflecting the suffering that was to follow the betrayal.
Following the story, we continue along the Via Dolorosa, or Stations of the Cross within the walls of the old city and strangely enough, mostly in what is now the Muslim Quarter. We visit the church of the Punishment, the place where Jesus was brought before Pontious Pilate and asked if he was "king of the Jews." During his trial, Pilate turns the fate of Jesus over to the Jerusalemites, who call for his execution. After this, Pilate washes his hands, removing the blame of the death from himself. Jesus is set to be executed along two criminals, at a place outside the walls of the city.
The Church of the Holy Sepulcher, argueably the most important christian site in Jerusalem was built on the site where Jesus was crucified and buried in Golgatha, the mountian of the skull. The history of the church is extremely complex, and involves centuries of infighting among the christian sects in regards to who has the rights to care for this site. While originally a Byzantine structure as well, it was later expanded by the crusaders, who built a large dome over the tomb of Jesus. The church today is divided by Catholics, Greek Orthodox, and several othe sects. They had fought with eachother so viciously over control that a Muslim family has been in charge of the keys of the church for generations to remain neutral. The church itself is very interesting inside because of these different divides and therefore contains a number of different styles. Due to a argeement on keeping the status quo, rennovations of the church were completely halted so the sects would not encroach on eachother's space. As a symbol of this there is the Immovable ladder on the second floor of the church that cannot be tampered with as it must remain after the agreement. Even today, voilent outbursts between sects occur, particularly during feast holidays. Not an especially christian way of behaving.
Overall, the church was rather impressive although even as a christian I felt like a complete stranger in it. The ritual and holiness of the place for me was overshadowed by the constant bickering and unwillingness to cooperate in maintaining Christianity's most holy of sites.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Sunday, July 12, 2009
July 5th -Tel Aviv field trip
Today we went to Tel Aviv with Dr. Mendelsson to explore what it says about Israeli nation building and in many ways as a juxtaposition to our Jerusalem experience. Tel Aviv in its 100 year history has served to represent "the new hebrew," a secular yet cultural identity, to build the city in sand dunes, to replace the arab port of Jaffa with a new Jewish destination. It isn't a mistake that the title of Herzl's novel was translated as Tel Aviv in Hebrew.
Our first stop was a very telling visit to Independance Hall, where the declaration was read to make Israel a soveriegn state following the end of the british mandate. The first important detail to note is that this historic site is not managed by the state of Israel but rather by the municipality of Tel Aviv. The "hall" was formerly the house of the mayor of Tel Aviv and maintains a still humble prescence. The main room has been reconstructed to reflect how it looked on the day of Independance and the speech of David Ben-Gurion plays as well as the national anthem. As with many sites in Israel, here you are meant to have an experience, a connection with the site and its place in Israeli history, and the creation of national identity. One is supposed to think of the unity of the Jewish people in this place, however the state has chosen not to keep this as sacred a site as Mt. Herzl or any of the more grand national monuments.
Walking down the street gives greater insight into the planning of the city, the original homeowners drawing lots and building the streets and throuroughfares of Tel Aviv themselves. Also we noticed, the style of international architecture pioneered in the Bauhaus. A socialist style, it features clean simple lines, functionality and lots of natural light, a style I rather like although it is starkly modern.
Our first stop was a very telling visit to Independance Hall, where the declaration was read to make Israel a soveriegn state following the end of the british mandate. The first important detail to note is that this historic site is not managed by the state of Israel but rather by the municipality of Tel Aviv. The "hall" was formerly the house of the mayor of Tel Aviv and maintains a still humble prescence. The main room has been reconstructed to reflect how it looked on the day of Independance and the speech of David Ben-Gurion plays as well as the national anthem. As with many sites in Israel, here you are meant to have an experience, a connection with the site and its place in Israeli history, and the creation of national identity. One is supposed to think of the unity of the Jewish people in this place, however the state has chosen not to keep this as sacred a site as Mt. Herzl or any of the more grand national monuments.
Walking down the street gives greater insight into the planning of the city, the original homeowners drawing lots and building the streets and throuroughfares of Tel Aviv themselves. Also we noticed, the style of international architecture pioneered in the Bauhaus. A socialist style, it features clean simple lines, functionality and lots of natural light, a style I rather like although it is starkly modern.
Friday, July 10, 2009
July 3-4 :Dj Tiesto/ Beach day
After our tour on Friday we hopped a bus from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, only an hour's ride away. Arriving in the city already feels like being transported through time, the skyscrapers and modern buildings in clear juxtaposition of the ancient stone of Jerusalem. While the girls took a taxi to get our tickets to DJ Tiesto, we decided to walk to the Hostel. After quite a few hot and sweaty minutes we made it there, only a block away from "Jerusalem beach" and claiming to be "the best Hostel in all Tel Aviv." Despite this, we must sleep on mattresses on the roof as there is no room for us in the dormitories.
After having to drive around a bit to find the park DJ Tiesto was actually playing in, we made it there to hear the driving bass and pop fare of European dance music. This was the ultimate cultural experience. So many people here: the clothing, dancing style, excitement, almost every element was different than shows in the US, yet still similar in the overall feel. It was good to go to something not at all touristy and develop a bit of a feeling for what the local culture is like. Almost impossible to catch a cab afterwards, have to walk up the road about a mile. Sleeping on the roof was less than desirable, but an adventure none the less.
The next day was shabbat, and as the buses would not run until sundown, we spent the day at the beach, no one leaving without a sunburn unfortunately. At the central station where we got the bus back, I was not prepared for the atmosphere. Walking through the doors was like entering a different country, almost all the people there central and south east asian workers. When the bus came, there was a pushing and shoving battle to get on, I had never seen anything like it in my life.
overall a good weekend and a greater insight into Israeli culture
After having to drive around a bit to find the park DJ Tiesto was actually playing in, we made it there to hear the driving bass and pop fare of European dance music. This was the ultimate cultural experience. So many people here: the clothing, dancing style, excitement, almost every element was different than shows in the US, yet still similar in the overall feel. It was good to go to something not at all touristy and develop a bit of a feeling for what the local culture is like. Almost impossible to catch a cab afterwards, have to walk up the road about a mile. Sleeping on the roof was less than desirable, but an adventure none the less.
The next day was shabbat, and as the buses would not run until sundown, we spent the day at the beach, no one leaving without a sunburn unfortunately. At the central station where we got the bus back, I was not prepared for the atmosphere. Walking through the doors was like entering a different country, almost all the people there central and south east asian workers. When the bus came, there was a pushing and shoving battle to get on, I had never seen anything like it in my life.
overall a good weekend and a greater insight into Israeli culture
July 3rd - Second Temple Period
This morning started off with a visit to the Jerusalem archeological sight on the less famous/ frequented part of the Western Wall. As the main section is divided by Male and Female, the section of the wall here is frequented by members of the conservative and reform Judaism movements in Israel and here men and women may pray together as well as women are allowed to practice ritual such as reading from the bible and wrapping Tefillin.
The archeological museum here made the decision of preserving pieces of all the historical periods of Jerusalem's history from the first and second temple through the byzantine and Muslim periods. It is in this place that the remains of "Wall Street" a temple market for buying sacrifices and changing money once stood. This is also thought to be the same place where Jesus overturned the money changer's tables (or benches, depending on translation).
A part of the wall that is missing has been attributed to the place where Mohammad tied his mythical horse before ascending to heaven at the Dome of Rock upon the temple mount.
By examining the remnants of the houses of Rabbis of the second temple period, it is clear that there is heavy Roman influence and decadence in the life of the clergy. Grand mosaics, Corinthian columns and private Mikvahs (ritual baths) adorn these houses.
Barak tells us the legend of Kamtza and Bar Kamtza two men with unfortunately similar names, and whose confusion of identity leads to the destruction of the second temple by the Romans in Bar Kamtza's anger that the Rabbis had not defended him (full story http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kamtza_%26_Bar_Kamtza).
The archeological museum here made the decision of preserving pieces of all the historical periods of Jerusalem's history from the first and second temple through the byzantine and Muslim periods. It is in this place that the remains of "Wall Street" a temple market for buying sacrifices and changing money once stood. This is also thought to be the same place where Jesus overturned the money changer's tables (or benches, depending on translation).
A part of the wall that is missing has been attributed to the place where Mohammad tied his mythical horse before ascending to heaven at the Dome of Rock upon the temple mount.
By examining the remnants of the houses of Rabbis of the second temple period, it is clear that there is heavy Roman influence and decadence in the life of the clergy. Grand mosaics, Corinthian columns and private Mikvahs (ritual baths) adorn these houses.
Barak tells us the legend of Kamtza and Bar Kamtza two men with unfortunately similar names, and whose confusion of identity leads to the destruction of the second temple by the Romans in Bar Kamtza's anger that the Rabbis had not defended him (full story http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kamtza_%26_Bar_Kamtza).
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Mt. Zion/ City of David
On this day, we look back to before the first temple to gain an understanding of the very small role Jerusalem played in this time when it was the land of Jebus, not even on the main highway through the region. The bible mentions that in the times before the Kings of Israel, there was lawlessness amongst the tribes, none looking out for one another. When King David reunited the tribes he decided to place the capital near its center, on the next mountain over from Zion, what is now known as the city of David. The archeological digging in this site has uncovered what some believe to be the Palace of David, overlooking an Arab village across the valley that would have been there in those days.
This idea lends itself to the story of David watching the beautiful women bathing on the roof, eventually having her husband killed so she can be his wife. For this David is challenged by a commoner and chooses to repent for his sin. The story is lovingly retold in the lyrics of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah:"
Your faith was strong but you needed proof
You saw her bathing on the roof
Her beauty and the moonlight overthrew you
She tied you
To a kitchen chair
She broke your throne, and she cut your hair
And from your lips she drew the Hallelujah
Baby I have been here before
I know this room, I've walked this floor
I used to live alone before I knew you.
I've seen your flag on the marble arch
Love is not a victory march
It's a cold and it's a broken Hallelujah
Beneath the city of David is the Gihon spring, which was the source of water for the its inhabitants. A hand carved tunnel was made through the Gihon, and now tourists may travel its windy passageway. The journey through the dark tunnel was much longer than I expected, at least half an hour. While most of the time we moved fairly quickly, when things became congested I began to get claustrophobic.
After coming out of the tunnel, we saw a roped off area where they are continuing excavation of the site. We came out of the area in the Arab village of Silwan, which sits right on top of the archeological project. immediately it looked like a different Israel. While Palestinian Israelis pay the same taxes, they do not recieve the same municipal dollars to build their schools, parks and infrastructure. We talked to a Palestinian here against the digging project as he says it has caused damage to no fewer than 40 homes in the area. There are also very apparent signs of settlers in this village, their barbed wire compounds and Israeli flags waving contrast starkly against the rest of the landscape of Silwan. He tells us that the settlers are extremely aggressive, and have recently attacked the Palestinians here at a non-violent protest that had been organized. The most shocking thing for me about this experience is how drastically sense of place changes in physically in such a small area, right next to this revered Jewish historical site. This experience adds layer upon layer of past and present, historical cleavage and social complexity.
This idea lends itself to the story of David watching the beautiful women bathing on the roof, eventually having her husband killed so she can be his wife. For this David is challenged by a commoner and chooses to repent for his sin. The story is lovingly retold in the lyrics of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah:"
Your faith was strong but you needed proof
You saw her bathing on the roof
Her beauty and the moonlight overthrew you
She tied you
To a kitchen chair
She broke your throne, and she cut your hair
And from your lips she drew the Hallelujah
Baby I have been here before
I know this room, I've walked this floor
I used to live alone before I knew you.
I've seen your flag on the marble arch
Love is not a victory march
It's a cold and it's a broken Hallelujah
Beneath the city of David is the Gihon spring, which was the source of water for the its inhabitants. A hand carved tunnel was made through the Gihon, and now tourists may travel its windy passageway. The journey through the dark tunnel was much longer than I expected, at least half an hour. While most of the time we moved fairly quickly, when things became congested I began to get claustrophobic.
After coming out of the tunnel, we saw a roped off area where they are continuing excavation of the site. We came out of the area in the Arab village of Silwan, which sits right on top of the archeological project. immediately it looked like a different Israel. While Palestinian Israelis pay the same taxes, they do not recieve the same municipal dollars to build their schools, parks and infrastructure. We talked to a Palestinian here against the digging project as he says it has caused damage to no fewer than 40 homes in the area. There are also very apparent signs of settlers in this village, their barbed wire compounds and Israeli flags waving contrast starkly against the rest of the landscape of Silwan. He tells us that the settlers are extremely aggressive, and have recently attacked the Palestinians here at a non-violent protest that had been organized. The most shocking thing for me about this experience is how drastically sense of place changes in physically in such a small area, right next to this revered Jewish historical site. This experience adds layer upon layer of past and present, historical cleavage and social complexity.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
7/1/09 - First Day of Classes
Well now we are operating out of our home base in the student village of Hebrew U and all moved in to our rooms. The way the dorms are set up is in 5 person apartments with a communal living room and kitchenette, bathrooms and shower inside. It is nice to have my own bedroom, and to have semi-permanent place to live. I have to two Israeli roommates as well as two from Philadelphia who are also in the program at Rothberg International school. It is a nice living situation, but we are so busy that I really don't spend that much time here.
Today we had our first class with Dr. Mendelsson, exploring the origins, motivations and desires for the Zionist movement and the creation of a Jewish state in Palestine. I appreciate how his method of questioning challenges us to think critically about this subject and makes it interesting to learn. It is also nice to have a smaller class of about 15 as it promotes discussion and students don't feel as reluctant to participate.
After this, we met Prof Bernstein and our Jerusalem tour guide Barack at the King David Hotel downtown. As we discuss why we have come here and what Jerusalem means to us, I am still taken aback that I am actually here experiencing all this. A city with so much history can be overwhelming, if you dig literally anywhere you may find remnants of civilization dating even before 500 B.C.
On this day we got an introduction to the city, the first neighborhood outside the city walls and the topography of the region. Barack introduced us to the idea of two cities: a heavenly Jerusalem and an earthly Jerusalem, competing elements that tell the story of the area. Between these are ideas of history and faith, record and legend. A perfect example of this is the Tomb of King David, over which is said to be the room of Jesus' last supper with the Apostles, as well as a Mosque. All three monotheistic religions claim a part of the site, although it is uncertain whether or not any of these are actual sites, as the archeological records do not agree with the claims of religion. In this way the place inhabits a grey area of fascination with myth and reality.
We finished the day with a walk through the old city and a visit to the Western Wall. Although relatively uncrowded this site still gave a powerful presence. As I stood there and placed my hand upon the stone, it felt as it the stories of the centuries could be told in that place.
Today we had our first class with Dr. Mendelsson, exploring the origins, motivations and desires for the Zionist movement and the creation of a Jewish state in Palestine. I appreciate how his method of questioning challenges us to think critically about this subject and makes it interesting to learn. It is also nice to have a smaller class of about 15 as it promotes discussion and students don't feel as reluctant to participate.
After this, we met Prof Bernstein and our Jerusalem tour guide Barack at the King David Hotel downtown. As we discuss why we have come here and what Jerusalem means to us, I am still taken aback that I am actually here experiencing all this. A city with so much history can be overwhelming, if you dig literally anywhere you may find remnants of civilization dating even before 500 B.C.
On this day we got an introduction to the city, the first neighborhood outside the city walls and the topography of the region. Barack introduced us to the idea of two cities: a heavenly Jerusalem and an earthly Jerusalem, competing elements that tell the story of the area. Between these are ideas of history and faith, record and legend. A perfect example of this is the Tomb of King David, over which is said to be the room of Jesus' last supper with the Apostles, as well as a Mosque. All three monotheistic religions claim a part of the site, although it is uncertain whether or not any of these are actual sites, as the archeological records do not agree with the claims of religion. In this way the place inhabits a grey area of fascination with myth and reality.
We finished the day with a walk through the old city and a visit to the Western Wall. Although relatively uncrowded this site still gave a powerful presence. As I stood there and placed my hand upon the stone, it felt as it the stories of the centuries could be told in that place.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
6/28/2009
First day of touring in the Galilee valley with Schraga (sp?), our tour guide from Nahalal. We began with a very European looking statue of Alexander Zaid, a Russian immigrant and protector of the valley in the 19th century.
On next to Bet She'arim, a necropolis and resting place of the famous Rabbi Yehuda Henassi, the compiler of the Mishna, the oral traditions of the Jews regarding daily life, a compliment to the Torah. We also saw the ruins of the Senadrene, the ancient Jewish court that handles the judicial matters of the people.
In Sippori we were amazed at the ancient Roman aqueducts caves and pipes used to transport water throughout the region. The sheer scale of the caves is a testament to the capabilities of man, even so long ago. We also experienced the ruins of a roman settlement with some incredible mosaic that had been perserved.
an interesting note was in the remains of the Synagogue a mosiac with representations of the Zodiac, and jews today still debate the appropriateness of this decoration although common in the era
6/27/2009
When I woke up the this morning I was privileged enough to have a great breakfast prepared by Talli's mother: Hummus, good bread, tea and Israeli Salad (cucumber and tomatoes in olive oil!, really fresh tasting). After I had finished Halli and I were taken on a four wheel drive tour of the Moshav by Talli's sister and her husband. Nahalal is very unique in its circular shape, and it was interesting to see how many different types of artistry and farming go on there. Talli also is an accomplished potter and showed us her work, as well as a kiln she built herself.
When we were together in a group we were able to see the archive room of the Moshav, curated by an amazing historian who had so many great stories for us. Each year had its own file full of pictures writings and artifacts from the Moshav. We were also told the stories of the members of the community who had died in their military service to the country
The History of Nahalal is intertwined with that of Israel and it was great to see those connections.
6/26/2009
In the morning we packed up and had a great Israeli style breakfast before our journey to Galilee. We had great yogurts, cheeses, fruit, cucumbers and rolls... the best. On our way to Nahalal we stopped at Appolonia, the site of ancient ruins from the Phoenician, Hellenistic and Byzantine period as well as the remains of a crusader fortress. The sight was right on the Mediterranean and was eventually destroyed by the muslim armies after the town had been under siege for 40 days.
After this we made it to Nahalal, Israel's very first Moshav (communal farm) founded in 1921. A very historic place and intergral to the History of the country, a number of famous Israelis have called it home at one time or another included Moshe Dayan and Ariel Sharon.
Tonight we are staying with Host families so we can really get a feel for Israeli life away from the tourist side. My host mother is Talli Barr, who had lived in Los Angeles for a time but returned to the beauty and simplicity of Nahalal where she lives with her parents and her sisters family. The hospitality was incredible. After a nice friday evening Shabbat service with lots of singing and a bit of dancing we sat down to a huge dinner of Kebab, various salads and the absolute best Baklava from the Bedouin village nearby
Interesting political discussion and perspective. Although definately not what I am used to hearing in terms of being pretty right leaning with a pretty strong anti-arab sentiment, it is hard for me to be judgemental as I am not close to the fighting. Nahalal has lost many of its own in the wars and even was fired upon by Hezbollah's Katuysha rockets in the 2006 war with Lebanon. As it is always said, Israel is a complicated place with multiple opinions and complicated challenges.
First Day
After a long flight with a layover in Frankfort, I arrive at Ben-Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv to meet up with Halli and Prof. Bernstein. We have a drive through the city to pick up two other members of our group, Amy and Aviva. While we were at the bus station I started to realize how many soldiers there are they are all carrying machine guns. One was eating a popsicle and holding his rifle which seemed like an interesting juxtopostion and said alot about the normalcy of security concerns in this country.
We then continued on to the beautiful neighborhood of Ramat Ha-Sharon where we would stay the night at Prof Bernstein's Mom's apartment and meet up with Jason. We walked the streets of the town and enjoyed some great frozen yogurt and Falafel.
The views from the top of the apartment were amazing, and we ended the evening by drinking tea and watching the stars.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
